Process of making shoes



S. C. WILSON.

PROCESS OF MAKING SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT.26, 1919.

1,421,347. I Patented June 27, 1922.

name sitar araaa canoe,

ASSIGNOR T0 WILSON PROCESS, CORPORATION OF NEW YORK.

PROCESS or Maxine snons.

amet.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented June 27, 1922.

Application filed September 26, 1919. Serial No. 326,567.

T 0 all whom it may concern Be it known that I, SIDNEY C. WILSON, a citizen of the United States, and resident of Rochester, in the State of New York, have invented an Improvement in Processes of Making Shoes, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like letters on the drawings representing like parts.

My present invention is a novel boot or shoe and I have devised an economical practical and eflicient method of manufacturing my improved shoe, which method I believe is also new.

In-my prior application, -Ser. N 0. 317,456, filed August 14, 1919, on an improved type of insole for use in the manufacture of boots and shoes, I have therein shown, described and claimed the insole having channelsformed on both the grain side and flesh side. The present application is directed to cover the shoe made with. the novel insole of my said prior invention, as well as the preferred process of making such a shoe embodying this insole.

In the preferred method of manufacturing my improved boot or shoe, I first prepare the insole substantially as shown in said prior application, said insole being preferably of the usual type of leather insole now generally employed in the manufacture of the welt type of footwear. This insole is channelled on the flesh side byvfortning a flap, preferably cut from toward the center of the shoe outwardly toward the vmarginal portion and around the forepart and shank excepting the extreme toe portion. This extreme toe portion may or may not be channeled, as desired. On the grain side of the insole, i. e., on the side or surface of the insole intended to be next the foot of the wearer in the completed shoe, 1- form a channel by splittin in the marginal portions of the insole, pre erably leaving the toe portion unchanneled. This inner channel, i. e., in the grain side, is intended to cover the through and throughstitch, my present shoe being stitched on a McKay shoe stitcher. The formation of the channel on the flesh side of the insole, i. e.,

that next the filling and outsole and in the form preferred, is believed-to be distinctly new, and the provision of channels in the opposite surfaces of an insole, is also new, and intended to be covered broadly in said prior case. These channels are preferably staggered somewhat, so that the between substance will be of proper strength and practically unweakened. In utilizing this type ofjhsole in my novel shoe, I produce a completed shoe with substantially the full strength of the thickness of the insole for the stitching, holding insole, upper and outs sole together. In carrying out my process I apply the appropriate insole to a last with the grain side down, this last being of the usual welt last type, viz., without a clinching plate on the bottom, then assemble an upper thereon, thereupon pulling over and lasting the-shoe. In use the welt type of lasting machinery first pulling over the toe, if desired, and thereafter lasting and tacking the sides and shank of the upper to the insole, and last by lasting tacks partly driven This is the welt method of lasting, as distinguished from the McKay type of lasting, wherein .the lasting tacks are driven entirely into and throughtheiinsole, being clinched on the inner sides of the insole against the metal plate on the bottom of the last. After this lasting, I next secure the lasted upper to the insole flap on the flesh side by any suitable fasteningsj Preferably I employ small metallic staples, five or six being set throu h the edge of the lasted upper and the c annel flap. With the shoe in this condition by any method, machine or by hand, identically as in the manufacture of welt shoes, thus leaving the lasted upper held in lasted position by the staples. The filling may then be applied, although a relatively small amount of filling is required in my shoe, because the channel flap practically lies down close to the insole and the outsole isapplied directly thereto. It will be understood that at the time of lasting, the heel lasting will be completed by nailing down the heel seat and preferably also the toe is nailed down. With the shoe thus' ready for the application of the outsole, I may either cement the outsole or the margin of the insole or rely on the ad hesive qualities of the shoe filling or filler. Then apply the outsole, then subject the shoe to the sole laying operation. The outsoles are standard McKay outsoles, preferably with channels formed in the bottom Or grain surface and turned back, the outsole being subthis lasting process, I prefer to I I then pull the lasting tacks,

jected to the laying operation in a welt sole laying machine with these outsole channels turned backwardly. The shoe is now ready to be removed from the last, or as is the usual term, the last is pulled, as in McKay shoe manufacturing. The shoe is now ready to be sewed by through and through stltching, a standard McKay sewing machine, such for example as the well known Richardson McKay sewer being used. In this step my present invention enables a very close stitch to be set. In fact, the outsole stitching may closely as in ordinary McKay stitching. In setting these stitches they are formed from the channel in the grain side of the insole through to the channel in the outer surface of the outsole and for this purpose the insole channel should be turned over efore sewing or this insole channel may be turned over when the insole is first applied to the last. The latter operation I find to be the simpler and preferable and without injury to the leather. After thethrough and through or McKay stitching, the insole lip is then turned down, preferably using the machine of my prior application, Ser. No. 302,013, filed June 5, 1919, or any suitable manner. I find it advisable to moisten or temper the insole preparatory to this smoothing and turning down operation, as will be more fully explained hereinafter.

The shoe is now complete, but it may be desirable to a ain use the last or follower, the

same last belng suitable for use, and levelling the shoe on a standard welt leveller, treeing, finishing and completely the shoe in the usual manner. 1

Referring to the drawings illustrating my improved construction and adapted to carry out my process, 7

Fig. 1 is a plan viewofmy improved insole showing the grain side or the side next the foot of the wearer, channeled to cover the McKay stitching; i

Fig. 2 is a plan view ofthe reverse side of my improved insole, i. e., the flesh side, showing the channel flap;

Fig. 3 is a cross sectional View showing the shoe in different steps during the process. of manufacture on the last;

Fig. i is a cross-sectional fragmentary View; and

Fig. 55 1s a cross sectional view showing the completed shoe.

Referring to the drawings, the prepared insole as designated generally as 1, is first split in on the grain side of the forepart and shank, indicated as ,2, 2, forming a flap 3, 3, on each side, extending from the to the heel seat 5. On the the insole, i'. 'e., the flesh side,

from the center of the insole, as indicated at: 7,.7, toward the marginal edge to a depth insole be made almost twice as over machine operation. the last and tacks the toe 8, slightly staggered from the line 2 ofthe flap on the grain side. This lip also runs from the toe portion 4 to the heel part 5., which latter are preferably uncut. The advantages, importance and usefulness of this is still further pointed out and claimed in my said copending application, reference to which is hereby made for a fuller description of this feature. With the insole thus prepared with double channeled portions I apply the same to a last 10. This last maybe of any suitable or desirable type or style, last, or otherwise, and preferably is of the standard wooden type, without clinching plate excepting at the heel, as is generally employed in making welt shoes. This last, therefore, can receive the points of lasting tacks without damage or clinchin the same. In applying the insole 1 to the ast 10, the flaps 3 may beturned over as indicated at the right of Fig. 3 or ma be left as split, as shown at the left of Fig. 3, to be afterwards turned up preparatory for the sewing,'as will be explained. In Fig. 3 I have shown both methods. The upper materials 12 are then assembled upon the last and the shoe preferably subjected to the pulling portion of the insole, whereupon the shoe is further lasted along each side and shank by any welt lasting machines or 'methods. I prefer to employ the usual hand method lasting machine for this operation, the machine the 'iii'sole and last by driving in temporary lasting tacks 14. This operation is pee. formed exactly as in making welt shoes, by the same machines, same operations and on the same labor bases and rates; With the shoe thus lasted, I then secure the marginal edge of the lasted upper vto the inner lip by permanent securing means 15, see Fig. 3, at the right. These fastenings may be and preferably are thin metallic staples which are set through above the lasting tacks, in a well known manner, by any desired machine or by hands Thereupon the lasting tacks: 14 are removed, exactly as in welt shoe manufacture, and the surplus portions of the upper and the lip Gmay then be trimmed off. This trimli 6 pulls down ye closely to the bodyof the insole 1, and tlie slight thickness of the upper materials 12 do not form much of a ridge between th'etwo soles. In m shoe, because of this construction and. t e

staples to the upper, an intermediate filling material can be omitted, although I prefer to applysuch a filler 16 on the insole,'s1m1lar to welt shoe fillers now in general use. With the shoe thus completed, the

block last, hinge This pulls over .pullin g 'over the upper and securing itto ming', however, it entirely optional, as the eculiar form of the lip 6 and its securing manner. This stitching is formed by thestandard types of McKay stitching machines hav1n a sewing horn, as already described. l rior to the stitching operation, the ortions 22 on the outsole are turned bac wardly, and if the insole flaps 3 have been left as shown at the left in.

Fig. 3 i. e., not turned backwardly as in,- dicated at the right of said Fig. 3, these flaps are turned, the insole being first moistened and tempered. If, however, as is preferred, the flaps 3 have been turned baokwardly when the insole was applied .to the last, the shoe is then in position for sewing without further operations. After the sewing operation, these insole flaps 3 are cemented and turned downwardly in any suitable manner, preferably by using the machine of my said prior application, Ser. No. 302,013. The shoe is then relasted and finished, treed, and completed in the usual manner.

It will thus be seen that I have devised a novel method of making an extremely 'fiexible'shoe employing the economical Mc- Kay methods so far as stitching and construction is concerned, but obtaining the advantages, also, of a welt shoe construction with the better fitting, flexibility, appearance and features of the welt shoe. Furthermore, the construction is substantially equivalent in flexibility and in the preliminary .operat'ons of lasting, to turn Shoe work, my completed shoe, by the process herein set forth, producing resultant advantages heretofore possessed by 'either a welt shoe or turn shoe, and accomplished by my invention in a substantial McKay shoe type of construction employing straight through and through stitching.

In the present application I have elected to claim my. novel process and in my coending application, Ser. No. 332,222, I iiave claimed the shoe madeby this process, while in my copending case, Ser. No. 317 ,456, filed August 14, 1919,][ have claimed broadly the novel type of insole I preferably em loy'.

channel lip 6 cut on the insole, in a manner to receive fasteners or fastenings, preferably in spaced position, and equivalent to stay tacks in welt lasting, to hold the upper when lasted by welt lasting methods,

y my present method of utilizing thefinachines or processes, which lip and'attached upper are of sufiicient strength only to hold the lasted upper while the last is withdrawn and the througli-and-through stitching applied; and furthermore which lip is specially formed to lie flush with the insole froin which it is temporarily lifted for the upper attaching steps, I have produced a flexible and substantially tackless McKay shoe. The further feature of forming the insole with an inner channel and flap w ich will lie fiat, cover, conceal and protect the through and through stitching, imparting to the inner surface of the insole a smooth foot contacting surface and giving the appearance, comfort and desirability of a welt shoe, and yet in a throughand-through fastening construction, I am enabled to make a commercially practica-. ble and successfully marketed boot or shoe. I am advised that my invention of lasting aMcKay type of shoe by welt processes, securing lasting tacks temporarily thereto, and then removing these lasting tacks, while attaching the upper to the insole with sufiicient strength to hold the upper in lasted position. until the through and through stitching is a plied, is a distinct novelty in this art, an I .wlsh to claim the same broadly. i

My invention is further described and defined in the form of claims as follows: 1. The improved process of making boots and shoes which consists in forming an insole with a marginal lip from the heel portion to adjacent the toeon "each side, assembling the insole and upper materials on a last and lasting the upper by workin the upper over the edge of the insole anc l securing it in lasted position by means of lasting tacks, partially driven in, then attaching the lasted upper by a plurality of separate fasteners to the insole lip, then re moving the lasting tacks, a plying an outsole and withdrawing the, ast, and there 110 upon permanentl' uni-tingthe'outsole, up per and insole y through and through stitching, on a line between the separate fasteners and the insole.;.edge, and thereafter finishing the shoe in {any desired manner. v

2. The improved process of'making boots and shoes which consists in forming a lip 0r flap along the marginal edge portion of each face of an insole and extendin from the heel to the toe thereof, assembling the insole and upper materials on a last having clenching plates at toe and heel only, lasting the heel and toe ortions and driving permanent lasting tacl s through the upper and insole and clenching them at said heel and toe portions, then Working the upper over the edge of the insole and securing it temporarlly by lasting tacks partially driven in, then attaching the upper 139 to one of'said lips or flaps at intervals In testimony whereof, Ihave signed my by separate fasteners, thereupon removing name to this specification, in the presence the temporary lasting tacks, applying an of two subscribing witnesses. outsole, withdrawing the last, and uniting v Y Y 5 the insole, upper and outsole by through SIDNE1 U W and. through stitching on a line between i the separate fasteners and the insole edge and thereafter folding the remaining lip 01 flap over the exposed stitching on the in- 10 side of the boot or shoe.

Witnesses: v

JANE VIVIAN, A. 1D. COLFELT. 

